The weather forecasts in the Balkans are reliably unreliable. Nevertheless, we took a chance and went for a walk along Vilsonovo Setaliste (Wilson’s Way). It’s a beautiful tree-lined promenade that follows the Miljacka River. Just like our failed attempt to get there last year, we passed by many building shells and buildings that are still ridden with bullet holes from more than 20 years ago.

Forcing a smile

The older generation is usually expressionless; sometimes they force a nod or a smile when their eyes meet ours, or when we smile. Considering they witnessed death and destruction, and had no food, water or electricity throughout the four-year siege, I feel bad that they felt they had to force a smile for us.

It was a beautiful walk. On our way to the bus station to confirm a schedule we found online, we passed by the American Embassy. Guards patrol the perimeter and no cameras can be pointed towards it. I asked Kenric if he would feel safer living in the building across the street from the embassy. I immediately realized how stupid that question was and added, “We might as well be living in a store that’s called Target, right?”

Refugees selling tissue paper

The bus schedule we found online was accurate. I don’t know when we’ll actually go to Travnik. I bought a few croissants to rebuild the supply I carry with me in case someone asks for food. We have been eating them for breakfast.

We walked to the train station just a few minutes away. There were a few more refugees there. We walked through the station and decided to have a beer at one of the restaurants with outside seating. Two Caucasian female tourists were eating cevapcici (sausage sandwich). Seated at the table next to them were four young males with backpacks and rolled-up sleeping bags.

Everyone was eating cevapcici

The inside of the restaurant was packed. At least four of the tables were occupied by refugees/migrants. Almost every one of them was having cevapcici. We paid for our beer and brought them out to the table next to the four men. They were charging their phones using a power strip that was extended from the restaurant. I’m glad the restaurant was accommodating to them.

A few more came to join them. Soon, those from inside joined them too. While a group of darker-skinned young males may invite skepticism as to their real status, don’t people the world over send their strongest and those in their prime out for a fighting chance? The four who were seated gathered their stuff and the entire group left with everything they own; perhaps to the bus station for the next bus out of town. I wanted to wish them a safe journey, but none of them had any eye contact with us. I hope they stay out of harm’s way.

There was another group of five standing not too far away. I had exactly five croissants with me. I put them in a bag. Since Kenric delivered a burek (a pie) to the girl asking for food last time, it was my turn to deliver these croissants. I said “Hello” and showed one of them what was in the bag. He said “Thank you” and took the bag. The others said “Thank you”. I nodded but couldn’t force a smile. Neither could they.

Map of Places Visited