We hired the young man who was our Grab driver, Elliott, to take us to Kinabalu Park. You may recall seeing a video of the beautiful Mount Kinabalu with annoying screaming in the background. That was taken at Pekan Nabalu which is about 12 km (7.5 miles) from the park. We were definitely not climbing the mountain. Besides, registrations are six months out.
We visited the Botanical Garden and saw some cool pitcher plants and orchids. We picked the shortest hiking trail because it was raining and because the trails are steep. Kenric and Elliott climbed a second and steeper trail. Kenric said a young lady, probably Australian, was hoping they would be her hiking buddies because she was alone and hiring a guide was too expensive for her.
Kundasang
After that, we went to the Kinabalu War Memorial in Kundasang. The park is dedicated to Australian and British Allied soldiers who were either killed in the Japanese prisoner-of-war camps during WWII in nearby Sandakan and Ranau, or killed during the death march to Ranau. I wrote about that a few days ago. The town of Kundasang is in a very beautiful area. The weather was cool and refreshing. It’s quite idyllic.
Sinalau Bakas (smoked wild boar)
Elliott said we should definitely try Sinalau Bakas (smoked wild boar) on our way back. It’s a local delicacy among the Kadazandusun people, the most prominent group of indigenous people, which is actually a unification of the Kadazan and Dusun groups. There were chunks and chunks of meat to choose from. Our piece was weighed and the lady rounded it up to RM 10 (about USD $2.50)
When the meat was finally delivered to our table, Kenric was convinced we had been given a different piece. Elliott assured him that it was the same piece. I was too busy eating to care. The meat was so delicious. Since we would be meeting my dear friend who was a connoisseur of Balinese Babi Guling later that evening, I decided to get him some too. Even Elliott got some to bring home for his family.
When we were selecting our takeaway pieces, we learned that the lady first skins the big chunk of meat, then slices it and smokes the slices again. After that, each slice would be chopped up before serving. We saw a man and his wife pack up more than 5 kg (11 lbs) of meat to take home. At RM 20 per kilo, that’s about RM 100 (about USD $25). He took the meat home as is. Elliott said, the meat can keep for many days and that the man will probably enjoy it bit by bit when he’s drinking because that’s the best way to enjoy Sinalau Bakas.
You Can’t Say No to Sinalau Bakas
It was really great meeting up with my friend later that evening. He’d been living in the U.S. until four years ago. Now he bounces between countries in this region as he pleases. Although he has had his own business for years, his very early retirement made me think how wonderful it would be to quit the corporate world. Well, early retirement got old for him within a few months. Not feeling productive at the end of each day prompted him to look into different projects again. We met for sushi, he had tofu, edamame and raw fish only. He has also sworn off alcohol and sugar, but he wasn’t able to say no to the delicious surprise of Sinalau Bakas.
Map of Places Visited
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Nabalu Market Pekan Nabalu Sabah, Malaysia | |
Sinalau Bakas Himbaan Bongol Pekan Nabalu Sabah, Malaysia | |
Kundasang War Memorial Kundasang Sabah, Malaysia | |
Taman Botani (Botanical Garden) Pekan Nabalu Sabah, Malaysia |