Until a week ago, the only thing Kenric and I knew about Travnik was Travnik Cheese served in many restaurants in Sarajevo. Then, I learned about Dobre Volje, the wonderful place that serves free hot meals in a restaurant setting to anyone who walks in, or delivers the food to those who are homebound. Be sure to read yesterday’s post about the wonderful young couple (Adisa and Amir) who run Dobre Volje.

Arna, our friend who is a tour guide, recommended that we visit the nicely restored Travnik Castle, the Colorful Mosque, the birth house of Nobel Prize novelist Ivo Andric, have lunch at Hari Cevabdzinica, and save some room for sample tasting because it’s Market Day.

Our favorite mosque

The Best Cevapi

Hari Cevabdzinica is only a few minutes away. Arna said the drivers she partners with hate it when she tells guests that Hari Cevabdzinica has the best cevapi. “No, the best cevapi is in Sarajevo!” Kenric and I agree with Arna. Their sausages are perfectly seasoned and the texture is unmatched. We love the place even more because while researching, I learned that they sponsored a meal at Dobre Volje. One of the diners interviewed was excited about having Hari’s cevapi.

There were many dogs sleeping in the park. I saved only one sausage so I quietly gave it to the doggie that was half awake. We had more pet food in the car, but we were afraid it would cause the dogs to fight. Nearby, a lady and her daughter were dumping out a lot of bread for pigeons. The girl tried to guide the pigeons to the bread but that only scared them away. Little girl was disappointed.

Cabbage

An old lady sitting on a park bench was selling her cabbage. She had two full sacks; maybe 16 heads. We walked around a little, took some photos and got into the car. Cabbage Grandma was pushing her cart past our car. It didn’t look like she sold any since we saw her at the park. I told Kenric we should just buy the cabbage and bring them to Dobre Volje. It will save this poor old lady from having to push them all the way home and maybe then have to climb the stairs with them.

I got out and ran after her. Suddenly, I realized I didn’t speak Bosnian. I pointed at her cart. She said, “Kupus!” I know it’s cabbage but how much? Kenric locked the car and caught up. He translated something on his phone and showed it to the lady. She squinted but seemed confused. Nearby, a man was getting things out of his car.

“Hi, do you speak English?”
“Yes.”
“Can you ask her if she’s selling the cabbage? We’ll buy it from her.”

The man spoke with Cabbage Grandma. She pointed towards the park area.

“She bought them from the market over there. You can go over there and buy them. The market is still open.”

Ahhh…Market Day.

“I thought if she was selling them, we’ll buy them and bring them to a kitchen.”

The man smiled and went back to his car. I thought, “Who buys two sacks of cabbages?! Sixteen heads?!” We smiled and waved at Cabbage Grandma. She was still trying to show us where the market was before leaving. She must have thought, “Go buy you own kupus at the market!”

My presumption and the entire encounter were so absurd that Kenric and I just started laughing. We drove by the Ivo Andric Museum and left town before I make fools out of us again.

Map of Places Visited