The only kind of Eurail pass we could buy when we were back in the U.S. was a first-class pass. Still, some trips require a reservation plus a small fare. Usually, the first-class cars are empty except for international travelers who were probably forced to buy first-class tickets like we were.

There’s only one train from Prague to Krakow on Sundays, and it was one of those reservation-plus-fare trips. Shortly after we were seated, two young men came into the six-person compartment with their skateboards, and asked if they could sit with us. Of course! They explained that they had second-class passes, but there were no more seats in second class, so the ticket lady gave them first-class vouchers.

The Czech Conductor

After about 45 minutes, the conductor finally came. They could keep the seats as long as they pay 12€. Good deal. They were really friendly and easy-going; really excited to tell us about their adventures abroad, and about taxi drivers back home in Dublin. Gary (late 20s) quit his job when his boss told him three days before he was supposed to fly out that he could only get four instead of five weeks off as he had requested. Scott, 23, starts college in September; graphic design, and he’s really looking forward to it.

They’ve been to many places these past few weeks, stayed at many cool hostels, and they were drunk a lot. They love the warm weather and skating in their shorts because the hottest Ireland ever got was 29 degrees Celsius (84.2 F); a day Scott said he would tell his grandkids about.

The Polish Conductor

Soon, a new conductor came to check the tickets, but the receipts they got from the earlier conductor was not good enough now. As they were trying to explain, they were also trying to see what snacks the lady with the pushcart has for sale. She said she accepts Euro and Polish Zloty. They said they didn’t have much cash, and asked if she would barter her snacks for a can of beer. She repeated Zloty or Euro. The train conductor, who spoke no English, was still waiting for them to pay the equivalent of 6€. They were confused saying they paid. I heard the conductor say something “Czechia” something “Polska”, and I said, “Oh, you only paid for the part of the journey under Czech Republic. Now you have to pay for the Poland part.”

The Pushcart Lady

Knowing that these two guys have no money left, the pushcart lady said she would now accept beer. Scott quickly covered the remaining cans with his sweatshirt, and said he doesn’t want anything anymore. We bought him the croissant he initially asked about. He refused at first, but ate it heartily. He has been able to see a lot of the world by using www.workaway.com where you volunteer to work in exchange for food and accommodation.

Gary encouraged us to visit Ireland because it’s really, really beautiful. The company he worked for partners with many tour companies, but Paddy Wagon is the best. He has always wanted to move to the U.S., but knows it will be much more difficult now. He likes baseball, soccer, but thinks hurling and Gaelic football (Gaelic football?!) have become too violent, and not about sportsmanship anymore. One of his favorite beers is Lomza, and he may just go find a job in Berlin instead of returning to Dublin even though his boss emailed to say his job will be there when he returns.

Seven-and-a-half hours laters, 16 cans of assorted beer (16.9 oz / 0.5 liter) between the two of them, and many good laughs, we arrived in Krakow. We shook hands and bid one another “Happy Travels!”

Gary asked: Did you hear about the little psychic that escaped from jail? She’s a small medium at large.

Meanwhile, in the USA

Now, a few hours before our guided tour at Auschwitz, and in light of the blatant and disgusting display of Nazism by white supremacists in Charlottesville, Kenric and I truly appreciate how worldly and friendly our new Irish friends are.